mmm meyer lemons!

Meyer lemons are named after US plant explorer Frank Meyer, who found them in Beijing, China. In 1908, Meyer lemons were introduced to North America and became popular in California, Florida and Texas. The Meyer lemon is a hybrid between Citrus limon, the lemon, and Citrus reticulata, the mandarin orange. The appearance of the Meyer lemon is: thin smooth unpitted skin; deep yellow to orange colour when mature; very juicy yellow-orange flesh; rounder and more tender than the standard lemon. The characteristics of the Meyer lemon are: tangy aroma/fragrance; slightly sweet peel; juicier, sweeter, and less acidic and tart than the standard lemon. The Meyer lemon plant bears fruit from November through April but are hard to find in grocery stores as they are very popular with restaurants and chefs within the regions their grown. Meyer lemons are wonderful for cooking and baking because their flavour and mellowness blends well with herbs, spices and other flavours and makes them versatile and appealing.







I was shopping at Whole Foods the other day when I came across a heap of glowing Meyer lemons. I haven't come across Meyer lemons that often and knew that I would be making dessert for a dinner this weekend; so, I decided to buy a bunch. When I got home, I went to my pastry books and took out Chez Panisse Desserts by Lindsey Shere and Chez Panisse Fruit by Alice Waters. As Alice Waters notes on the Meyer lemon, “it wasn’t until our long time pastry chef Lindsey Shere started experimenting with them that our proselytization began.” Shere has been inspiring chefs and home cooks for years with her wonderful knowledge and her insistence on quality and seasonal ingredients. Armed with inspiration, a recipe and Meyer lemons, I set out to make a lemon dessert. I wanted to make a dessert which really emphasized the flavour and aroma of the Meyer lemon. So I knew it had to be simple and clean. I decided to make a lemon tart with a sherbet and a compote.








Meyer lemon tart with a Meyer lemon sherbet and compote



The crust of the lemon tart was tender and flakey. The filling was tangy without being tart and the quenelle of cream helped to further soften the acidity. The candied citrus peel added a nice crisp sweetness. The sherbet was light and lively without being too acidic. The addition of milk in the sherbet recipe helped to mellow it. Lastly, the compote of segmented lemon with lemon sauce helped to give the taster a clear understanding of the taste, texture and tanginess of the Meyer lemon.



Meyer lemon tart

*one pre-baked short crust tart shell

2 Meyer lemons
2 eggs
3 egg yolks
6 Tbsp sugar
2 Tbsp milk
1/4 tsp cornstarch
3 Tbsp unsalted butter
3 Tbsp salted butter

makes 1 3/4 cup tart filling, enough for a 9 inch tart

Grate the peel from the lemons into a small non-corroding bowl. Juice the lemons and strain the juice into the same bowl. Strain out seeds, but force as much as the pulp through the strainer. Beat the eggs and egg yolks with the sugar in a heavy non-corroding saucepan just until mixed. Gradually mix the milk into the cornstarch in a small cup, then add them to the egg mixture – the cornstarch is necessary if the filling is to brown properly when baking. If you do not want to brown the tart, the cornstarch can be omitted. Next stir in the juice mixture: it will look a bit curdled when the juice is added, but will smooth out later. Cut the butter into pieces and add to the mixture. Cook the mixture over low to medium heat, stirring constantly, until it just coats the spoon and is the thickness of crème anglaise. Let it stand 5 minutes to thicken, then whisk slightly to smooth it.

At this point you can pour the filling into a container and keep it in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. In any case it is best to chill the filling before making a tart, but you may also pour it into the pre-baked tart shell without chilling it.

Preheat your oven to 375ºF. Fill the slightly cooled pre-baked shell with filling and bake for 30-35 minutes, or until the top is speckled with dark brown spots and the filling has puffed slightly. Remove from the oven and cool on a rack in its pan. You can also bake the tart just long enough to set the filling, about 15-20 minutes. This will make a smooth, shiny tart.

From Chez Panisse Desserts, by Lindsey Shere


Meyer lemon sherbet

1 1/2 cups sugar
1 1/2 cups water
1 cup Meyer lemon juice
1 Tbsp finely chopped Meyer lemon zest
3/4 cup milk
1 tsp gelatin
2 Tbsp water

makes one quart

In a small saucepan, gently heat the sugar and water until the sugar is dissolved. Pour this syrup into a bowl with the lemon juice. Stir in the zest and milk. In the saucepan, combine the gelatin with the water and let it sit for 5 minutes. Once the gelatin has plumped up, heat it gently until there is no visible graininess. Add the melted gelatin to the lemon mixture and refrigerate. When the sherbet base is cold, freeze it according to the instructions for your ice cream maker.

From Chez Panisse Fruit, by Alice Waters


If you haven’t had Meyer lemons before, pick some up and give them a try. I recommend anything that any one of the Chez Panisse cookbooks suggest with Meyer lemons. I absolutely adore them and I can see why they are popular and often in limited supply. I hope you enjoy!

i heart montréal

If you don't already have it, go out and buy it! The March 2006 Gourmet Magazines special issue features our own Montréal. With glowing reviews from the writers and from Ruth Reichl, editor of Gourmet Magazine, Montréal gets the exposure that it clearly deserves. The Magazine highlights a number of restaurants, markets, cafes, liquor stores, cute boutiques, creative cooking stores, regular tourist attractions and much more. They also mention Michelle and Anthony's blog,
...An Endless Banquet


,
which Gourmet calls "one of the city's best online resources for information on dining". I couldn't agree more!






I went to Montréal for the first time at the end of January for work, but I also took a couple extra days for holiday. Prior to departing, I contacted my friend Lisa, who recommended places to visit, as well as her friend Michelle's blog. I left with a trusty travel guide and pages from Michelle and Anthony's blog. The majority of my trip revolved around eating, book buying and shopping. All the restuarants, shops and stores that Michelle and Anthony listed were fantastic; so, I pretty much just went to places they suggested during my entire trip. Some of my favourite places include: Olive et Épices, a store selling an amazing range and quality of spices, Arthur Quentin, a trendy gourmet kitchen supply store, Les Chocolats de Chloé, a lilliputian chocolate store with beautiful handmade chocolates, La Banquise, a 24 hour dinner that serves every type of poutine imaginable, and Fairmont Bagel, my favourite Montréal bagel spot.

The main highlights of my trip, however, were visiting my friends and having the good fortune to sample desserts at both
Toqué
and
Les Chèvres
, two great Montréal restaurants.

Toqué's is known as one of Montréal's perennial top restaurants. The artistry of the kitchen is evident in every dish that is presented. Luckily for me, my friend Lisa is currently working at Toqué in the pastry kitchen; so, I was given a tour of their beautiful kitchen. The desserts that I had the pleasure of trying were:

1. apple ice cider slush with basil oil and a quenelle of physalis sorbet.
2. an eggshell bowl containing ground cherry jam, caramelized rice crispies, black truffle ice cream and caramel croquant, with a thin sheet of crispy caramel which sealed the eggshell closed.
3. a parfait that consisted of caramelized cranberries and raspberries, cantucci, white chooclate and yougurt crémeux, carmel croquant, maldon salt, rasel hanout and a cocoa tuile with spiced sugar (I could have eaten two of these!).
4. a caramelized cocoa brioche with gianduja crémeux, caramel croquant and apricot puree, lemon caramel, cacao brut, apricot carpaccio, wintergreen ice milk and caramel decor.
5. last but not least, two small cubes – one chocolate ganache, the other chewy caramel.

The desserts at Toqué were elegant, original, and plated beautifully. The combination of flavours tasted fantastic!

My other dining highlight was a visit to the sister restaurants of Le Chou and Les Chèvres. The desserts at Le Chou and Les Chèvres are designed and created by pastry chef Patrice Demers and his fantastic pastry team. Le Chou is the more casual and less pricey of the two restaurants. I made dinner reservations at Le Chou and dessert reservations at Les Chèvres so that I could try both without breaking the bank. My dinner at Le Chou was wonderful and their desserts looked tempting – so yummy and comforting. After dinner I went next door to have a dessert at Les Chèvres. Initially, I was going to order off the menu, but one of the owners asked if I wanted to have the dessert tasting menu. I immediately replied yes please! (Call ahead to see whether they have the dessert tasting menu. If not, just order off the menu; you won't be disappointed.) The desserts and the service at Les Chèvres were excellent. The dessert tasting went something like this:

1. basil sorbet with a yogurt foam.
2. pineapple carpaccio with fromage blanc mousse, carrot/clementine sorbet, carrot tuile and coriander.
3. apple compote topped with a biscuit, Chantilly cream and a pistachio wafer, served with a honey gelée and a quince sorbet.
4. a tandem dessert that consisted of: (a) diced poached pears in syrup, chocolate brownie topped with gianduja, and a crunch of caramel; (b) a chocolate and Oolong tea soup surrounding a disk of poached pear topped with cinnamon mousse.
5. a chocolate flourless cake with coffee Chantilly cream topped with black sesame tuile and served with caramelized bananas and sesame sorbet.
and just when i thought it had ended... a plate of mignardises (petit four) were brought out:
6. passion fruit marshmallow; grapefruit pâtes de fruits, orange cardamom financiers; Earl Grey ganache on mini chocolate sablés; and bite sized pistachio wafer and chocolate ice cream sandwiches.

The desserts at Toqué and Les Chèvres were sophisticated and of a very high calibre. I didn't want this sugar induced week-end to end ever! So, I thought that I would share my experience with the hope that others might have the oppurtunity to try either of these restaurants. The next time I'm in Montréal you can be sure that I will be eating, drinking and seeing as much as I possibly can. I can't wait.

patachou

Patachou is a patisserie, which has been serving wonderful classic French pastries for over 20 years. The Rosedale locale has moved across the road and is located in a newly renovated space, which has a nice and contemporary atmosphere. Their second store which opened last summer is located on St. Clair West. I decided to write about this Toronto pastry institution because I have newly discovered some of the delicious pastries they make. As usual their tarts, flans and croissants are excellent. The four pastries that I have decided to focus on include their: Gateau Basque, Peach Danish, French Macaroons and Bostock.




The Gateau Basque is a small cake with a shortbread-like pastry. The pastry is tender and flaky and the top of the Gateau Basque is crispy and sprinkled with medium sugar. The centre is filled with a delicious pastry cream, which is lightly flavoured with Pernod. It is a wonderful treat if you enjoy the flavour of anise. This pastry is a specialty since the pastry chef at Patachou is from the region of Basque and you will be hard pressed to find anything like this elsewhere in Toronto. The Peach Danish is an attractive and wonderful light and buttery pastry. It has a delicious pastry cream and is topped with a slice of peach, a touch of crumble and is lightly dusted with icing sugar. The French Macaroons are light, crisp and classic. The Macaroons come in four flavours: Strawberry, Pistachio, Mocha and Chocolate, with the Mocha being my favourite. The Bostock is a round and flat buttery brioche baked to perfection with a hint of orange flower water and is dusted with icing sugar. The Bostock here is exceptional. So if you are ever in Toronto or if you live in Toronto, check out some of the pastries at Patachou, it is definitely worth it.

PATACHOU:
1120 Yonge Street, 416 927 1105
835 St. Clair West, 416 782 0122